Artificial grass installed on bare dirt or a thin base will fail in Pueblo's climate. Summer heat, spring wind, freeze-thaw cycles, and heavy alkaline clay soils all demand that the ground beneath the turf be prepared correctly, that drainage be sized to handle both the daily watering of pets and the occasional hail that sweeps across the high plains, and that infill be chosen and applied in the right amount. This guide walks a homeowner through the layers that matter: what infill does, how much of it to specify, what goes under the turf, how to prepare Pueblo's difficult soil, how drainage is measured and tested, and what finishing details separate a real installation from a quick lay-down that lifts at the seams or holds water in puddles.
Whether you are converting a lawn that has died in the July heat, installing turf for a pet area that has turned to mud, or preparing a yard for an event or a move, understanding these basics will help you ask the right questions of any turf installation company and verify that the work is done right the first time.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the loose material worked into the turf after installation. It serves four purposes: it props the synthetic fibres upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the turf backing from UV damage, it adds weight to keep the turf from shifting in wind, and it plays a role in drainage and odor control. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is inexpensive and effective. Coated sand, sometimes called coloured or treated sand, has a rounded grain and often a mineral coating that makes it gentler underfoot and can reduce heat absorption. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes pet urine odors and is often blended with sand in dog-run areas. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under product names such as Envirofill, add additional properties: antimicrobial coatings inhibit bacteria growth, and cooling infills reflect heat and lower the surface temperature of the turf on hot days.
Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is an infill used in sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption is the priority, but it is rarely recommended for residential yards because it retains heat, can stain in rain, and requires more frequent raking and maintenance. For most residential and pet applications in Pueblo, silica sand or a coated sand blend is the standard choice. The infill you select should be specified in writing by your installer, along with the quantity per square foot, so that you know exactly what is being installed and can verify that the work matches the agreement.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot, and the amount matters. A typical residential turf installation calls for 2 to 4 pounds per square foot, depending on the turf product, the pile height, and whether the turf will be used for pets or play. The infill serves to keep the fibres standing upright, to shield the backing from sunlight, and to provide ballast so that the turf does not shift under foot traffic or wind. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts in cheap installations. When infill is sparse, the fibres flatten quickly, the backing begins to degrade from UV exposure, and the turf looks worn and thin within a year or two.
The correct amount for your project depends on the specific turf product, its face weight and pile height, and how it will be used. A pet turf in a dog run may need a higher infill load to manage drainage and odor, while a residential yard may use a standard rate. Rather than assume a figure, ask your installer to specify the infill amount in writing, in pounds per square foot, as part of the turf specification. This single number tells you whether the installer is planning a quality installation or cutting corners. When you receive your free estimate, the written spec should include this detail.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The foundation under artificial grass determines whether it will drain, settle evenly, and stay in place. The first step is removal. If there is an existing lawn, it must be stripped away, including the sod and roots. If there is old turf, it is cut out and hauled off. Any remaining vegetation, thatch, or debris is cleared so that you are working on bare soil. Next comes excavation. The depth depends on the site and the intended use, but typically 3 to 4 inches of material is removed and graded to create a gentle slope away from the house and away from pools or patios, so that water runs off rather than pooling.
A weed barrier, usually a non-woven fabric, is then laid to prevent weeds and roots from growing up through the turf. On top of that goes the free-draining base: typically decomposed granite or crushed base rock, 3 to 4 inches thick, compacted firmly in lifts with a plate compactor. For patios, pool surrounds, dog runs, or play areas where drainage speed and comfort matter, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed over the base before the turf. On hard surfaces such as concrete or balconies, turf is never glued flat to a solid slab. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is installed first, and edge drainage is provided so that water does not collect underneath. This layered approach ensures that water moves away from the turf, the backing stays dry, and the installation lasts.
Base Prep on Pueblo Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Pueblo sits on heavy alkaline clay soils that crack and shrink when dry, and turn sticky and compacted when wet. This soil does not drain well on its own, and it shifts with freeze-thaw cycles in winter. A proper base prep for artificial grass must account for these conditions. After the existing lawn and roots are removed, the area is excavated to the depth specified in your design (typically 3 to 4 inches). The ground is then graded with a gentle slope, usually 1 to 2 percent, sloping away from the house, the pool, or the patio, so that surface water does not collect. This grading step is critical in Pueblo because heavy clay will trap water if the surface is flat or slopes toward the structure.
Once graded, the base is filled with decomposed granite or crushed base rock and compacted in layers (called lifts) using a plate compactor. Each lift is 1 to 2 inches thick and is compacted firmly before the next lift is added. This process creates a stable, free-draining foundation that will not settle unevenly or develop dips and puddles. An uncompacted base is a common failure: it settles over time, creating low spots where water pools, infill washes away, and odor problems develop, especially in pet areas. If your yard has a real water problem, such as poor drainage from uphill or a high water table, drainage must be addressed first. If the site cannot drain adequately even after proper grading and base prep, we will recommend solutions or decline the work, because turf installed on a wet foundation will fail.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf itself is permeable. Water passes through the turf fibres and the backing at a rate measured in gallons per hour per square foot. Most residential turfs drain at 0.5 to 2 gallons per hour per square foot, which is fast enough to handle normal watering and light rain. The backing of the turf may be perforated (punched with small holes) or fully permeable (a porous material). Perforated backing is common and adequate for most applications. Fully permeable backing drains even faster and is preferred in high-moisture areas such as pet runs, playgrounds, or regions with heavy rainfall. However, even the fastest-draining turf will fail if the base underneath does not drain. A turf with excellent drainage sitting on compacted clay or an uncompacted base will hold water, develop odor, and create soft spots that shift underfoot.
For pet areas and play spaces where drainage speed is critical, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed between the base and the turf. These pads are perforated or porous, add comfort underfoot, and speed water movement away from the turf backing. For hard surfaces such as patios, balconies, or pool decks, a draining underlay is essential, and edge drainage (channels or sloped edging) must direct water away from the perimeter so it does not pool underneath. When evaluating a turf product or an installation plan, ask your installer for the drainage rate in writing, and ask how the base and underlay work together to move water away from the site. A real test is how the turf performs during a heavy downpour or after a pet area is heavily used. If water stands on the surface or seeps up from below, the drainage system has failed.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details of a turf installation reveal whether it was done carefully or rushed. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet. A proper seam is created by aligning the grain and pile direction of the two pieces, overlapping them slightly, and joining them with seam tape and a waterproof adhesive applied to the backing. The tape is pressed down and allowed to cure, creating a joint that is strong, nearly invisible, and will not separate under foot traffic or weather. A visible seam, a seam that is lifting, or a seam that leaks water tells you the work was not done right. Nails or staples are driven through the perimeter of the turf at the correct spacing (typically 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the product and site conditions) to secure it to the base and prevent shifting.
Edging is the boundary where the turf meets the surrounding hardscape or landscape. Clean, secure edging uses bender board (a flexible metal or plastic strip), landscape edging, or a secured perimeter that prevents the turf from rolling up or unraveling. Turf cut tight to pavers, cool decks, or pool surrounds should have no gap and no overhang. Finally, power brooming is the last step: the turf is brushed with a power broom or similar equipment to stand the fibres upright, spread the infill evenly, and give the surface a natural appearance. A turf that has not been power broomed will look flat and matted. These finishing touches take time and skill, but they are what separate a professional installation from a quick lay-down. Ask your installer to walk you through these steps and to show you examples of finished work.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that details every material and every step of the installation. This spec is your protection and your reference. It should include the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material (decomposed granite or crushed rock), the base depth and compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be installed, how seams will be joined, what edging will be used, what cleanup and haul-off are included, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation only). The spec should also note any site-specific conditions, such as a slope, a drainage solution, or an underlay for a pet area.
A written spec is not a sales tool. It is a binding agreement that tells you exactly what you are paying for and allows you to verify that the work was done as promised. Any turf installation company worth hiring will provide this without hesitation. If an installer refuses to put the spec in writing, or offers only a vague estimate, that is a red flag. For a free estimate and a detailed written specification for your site, contact Pueblo Artificial Grass Installation. We measure on site, specify every material, and stand behind our work with a clear warranty. For more information on pricing and what to expect, visit our pricing page.